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Blown-In Cellulose

Blown in cellulose is a highly effective, environmentally friendly insulation solution. Made from recycled newspaper and treated with
borate for fire retardance, the even distribution of blown in cellulose insulation makes for a high performance insulation that has come
into increasing favor among green builders and building energy efficiency experts. 

-  A few reasons we like blown in cellulose insulation: Environmentally Friendly.  Cellulose is made from recycled newspaper,
   so it's an earth-friendly insulation solution. You can also rest assured that it's a safe product to have in your house --
   no formaldehyde, no harmful chemicals.

-  Consistent High Performance.  Because cellulose is blown into cavities as small particles rather than installed in batt form,
   it's far less likely to come with gaps and air leaks around the edges. This means that you get consistent high performance -
   for a cozier, more energy efficient home.

-  Fire Retardant.  Cellulose is treated with the flame retardant borate, which is highly effective at slowing down the spread of fires.
   A house that is insulated with blown in cellulose insulation is safer from a fire-hazard standpoint than an uninsulated house. 

Fiberglass Insulation

Fiberglass insulation is an effective, affordable insulation option for new construction and retrofits. We emphasize quality of

installation to ensure maximum thermal performance and energy efficiency.

-  Fiberglass Blanket Insulation (Batts).   Fiberglass batt insulation is a cost effective insulation product for new construction and
   installation during renovations, remodels and additions ; when walls and ceilings are open). The key to quality fiberglass batt
   insulation performance is quality installation.  We work to ensure all of our installations are done properly, meaning batts are cut
   for precise fit around electrical boxes, wires and other obstructions. Combined with Air Sealing, the barrier against air leaks is minimized.

-  Blown-In Fiberglass Insulation.  Blown in fiberglass insulation is a cost effective alternative to batt insulation. Blown-in fiberglass
   reduces the chances for air leakage, as smaller particles fill cracks and gaps. Fiberglass insulation is fire retardant; and with an R-value
   of 3+\- per inch, a home insulated with fiberglass insulation will be cozier, quieter, and more energy efficient than an uninsulated home.

Spray Foam Insulation

   We offer professionally applied open-cell (dries soft) and closed-cell (dries hard) spray foam insulation.  Spray Foam offers
   superior insulation protection as it is also an automatic Air Sealer as it fills many seams, joints, cracks, holes, etc that occur in
   walls, ceilings, attics and/or crawlspaces.  It is very effective insulation for use with metal buildings.


Mold Remediation; (See information about Southeast crawlspaces on the Advanced Energy website)

-  Tear Out and Haul Away.  Removal of mold and/or mildew infested or otherwise deteriorated insulation.

-  Spray and Scrub.  Spray with a mold and mildew fungicidal disinfectant that cleans, sanitizes, and deodorizes; scrubbing and
   respraying as required moderate to heavy areas.

-  Encapsulate.  A painted coating of an EPA-approved antimicrobial fungicide designed to kill residual mold and mildew remaining after an appropriate cleaning of contaminated surfaces. This acrylic sealant coating also inhibits future growth of mold and mildew on cured surfaces of buildings; plaster, wallboard, drywall/sheetrock, concrete masonry, wood and primed and galvanized metal. It is not for use on HVAC systems. 

Moisture Control;  (See information about Southeast crawlspaces on the Advanced Energy  website)

-  Moisture Barrier; Polyurethane 6 Mil & 10 Mil thickness crawlspace ground cover.  Poly linings for the floor of a crawlspace protects
   from ground moisture being resident in a crawlspace which perpetuates mold and continuing growth.  We encourage a "poly seal" which
   means the strops of film are custom cut to your crawlspace and taped at the seals and caulked to the walls and pillar footings to seal out
   ground moisture far more effectively than just "putting plastic under your house".

- Sump Pump.  Sump pumps are used to remove standing or accumulating water (not confused with mere moisture).  Sump Pumps are

   typically used to remove water required to dry-out an area in preparation for insulation and/or poly-seal installations.  Pumps may be
   purchased and installed in areas that periodically flood for whatever reason. Such pumps come with levers that automatically start
   and stop the pump with rising and falling water levels. 

-  Air Dryer.  Air Dryers are used for short term use to dry rooms, crawlspaces and/or attics; as required.  They blow a gentle but firm
   stream of warm air to quickly evaporate excessive moisture; especially in heavy fabric materials like carpet, insulation, foam or wood.
   Air Dyers are engineered and intended to be short-term moisture control solution. 


-  Dehumidifier.  Long-term dampness that may be irreconcilable can sometimes be resolved with the use of a Dehumidifier.  Examples
   of such situations include basements and crawlspaces in damp (not wet) environments.  Dehumidifiers circulate air and remove moisture
   without impacting the area temperature.  Dehumidifiers for purchase come with a 5-year Warranty & optional Service Agreement.

-  Below Grade Fill Material.  When a crawlspace is below-grade (lower than the yard surrounding the outside of the crawlspace), it serves
   as a ground-water r
eservoir; attracting moisture and water from the yard as natural drainage.  Sometimes this can be solved (if there is
   enough crawlspace height, to backfill the crawlspace with an appropriate material, raising the grade level to or above the surrounding yard.
   Usual materials can be sand, dirt or other acceptable materials desired by the customer.   

Air Sealing

While insulating is pretty standard, air sealing is going the extra mile.  This includes:

- Caulking.  Sealing wood joints, floor-to-wall and wall-to-ceiling (where exposed) and any other joints that exposed to outside air.

- Spray Foam.  Sealing cracks around window frames, door jams, and in exposed walls; holes for ducts, wiring and plumbing.

- Spray Foam.  Larger jobs may be addressed with Spray Foam insulation instead of fiberglass batt or blown celluose. 

  With spray foam, insulation and air sealing are combined features in many areas of the installation.

- Attic Cap.  The most overlooked culprit of warm air escaping into the attic in the colder seasons or warm air falling from the

  attic during the warmer seasons, the Attic Door. Whether you have pull-down stairs or no, the attic door usually has a space

  or gap at the door seal.  An attic cap encloses that area and opens with the attic door.